We were hugely looking forward to our first visit to the annual perfume fair Pitti Fragranze, so when we were ready to leave at 4am in the morning and found that our flight had been cancelled, we were quite dismayed. We immediately started looking for an alternative, which we luckily found. With a day's delay, we were finally able to leave for Florence. The adventure could begin.

After checking in at our hotel (which immediately charmed us because their bath products were from the Gabriella Chieffo brand, an Italian perfume house dear to us that we introduced to Belgium five years ago), we rushed to our first appointment: the launch of the two new fragrance lines of the artistic brand Agatho. We already got a sneak peek earlier this year at that other trade fair, Esxence, but now they are here. We can't wait to introduce their new lines to you: Mythos: three perfumes inspired by Greek mythology, and Olympia: three sporty fragrances around vetiver that take their inspiration from the Olympic Games.

The next day, after breakfast, we headed to the actual fair, in a former train station on the outskirts of Florence. First impression: no long queues, an orderly space divided into two halls and a clear layout. This was looking good. The selection of brands had clearly been thought through as well: an excellent selection of niche brands from all corners of the world, some with a long history, but just as many interesting newcomers. Italian brands were well represented, but we also saw brands from less obvious countries such as Argentina, Romania, Sudan and Korea. It was intriguing to see (and smell) how those brands draw inspiration from the culture and history of their respective countries to come up with surprising creations. This is undoubtedly enriching the world of niche perfume.

We noticed that after five years, we had become a lot more ‘efficient’ in our approach. We quickly sense whether a brand could fit into our offering or not. Without exception, every brand that caught our attention gave us a warm welcome and took ample time to guide us through their story and fragrances. You could feel their rightful pride and passion in each of them and we often got to hear very personal stories. Perfume becomes something beautiful and unique when it is created from authentic emotions and personal experiences. That human connection is one of our main criteria when choosing a brand, and should our resources be unlimited, we would surely have returned home with a dozen new brands.

Besides new brands we discovered for the first time, we also saw quite a few brands we have been following for a while. It was fascinating to see how they had evolved, sometimes with a totally new (and improved) look and packaging or with a vision that had crystallised further. Launching a perfume brand might start as a wild dream with fantastic first creations, eventually you also have to come up with a coherent and unique story to gain a foothold in the wide range of niche brands.

On the last day, we still had a full hall to explore, although here there were more (mostly Italian) distributors presenting several of their brands, which made the experience just a little less personal. But here, too, we still discovered some nice surprises and were welcomed extremely hospitably each time. Although it was the third day for the exhibitors, everyone still looked fresh and perky and happily took time for us. The advantage of a smaller, quiet fair no doubt, both for them and for us.

Pitti is only open to ‘professionals’. Pity (no pun intended), for the many perfume lovers, but we found the serenity a relief after the stress of getting there. Among those professionals, besides retailers like us, were also journalists and content creators selected by Pitti's marketing team. Important and indispensable to give an event like this the necessary resonance.

We noticed that each ‘type’ of professional approached the fair differently. Of course, everyone is looking for trends and new gems. But whereas we mainly want to get to know and evaluate a brand in its globality (as a retailer, you enter into a relationship with a brand and then offer their entire collection), press and influencers focus more on exploring all the new launches of all brands. Understandable and commendable, as there were quite a few new perfumes on display.

What are the new trends?

Gourmand is clearly still on the rise, with quite a few new releases around fruity notes or vanilla. It promises to be a ‘yummy’ autumn.

We saw several new perfumes with oud as a central note, a category that seemed a bit over its peak, but is now back on a new rise.

More and more brands are betting on higher concentrations with the launch of Extrait de Parfums, in response to the demand for perfumes that last (very very) long.

Other brands go in a completely different direction, with sophisticated and subtle creations that pay tribute to nature, focus on sustainability with ecological packaging and ethical ingredients, or focus on personal well-being and spirituality. Perfumes that you wear primarily for yourself, with a high emotional character.

There was a lot of diversity and a great sense of enthusiasm. Even though it is becoming increasingly difficult for a small retailer like us to make choices, we can only applaud the dynamism and creativity of all these passionate entrepreneurs. It only makes the wonderful world of niche perfume even more interesting.

After two days of intensive ‘scouting’, we returned to Brussels enriched, with a dose of new energy and a suitcase full of samples. Thank you Pitti Fragranze, you were great.